Monthly Archives: May 2014

Cold shock to the system

Wednesday 30th April

Well what more telling message can you have to signal that you are getting closer to home, than to go up on deck to find that there are just a few brave souls all wrapped up in towels and cardies on their sunbeds like the ones who used to go to the seaside when it was raining saying “we came ere to av a good time and we’re bloody well going to av a good time.” The temperature’s plummeting (well from what it was on the other side of the Suez Canal). The sky is blue with scattered white clouds but the wind is blustery and there are many white caps in the med. Hey ho, homeward bound, IPA beckons, three ports to go and no chance of going round again.

The talks were well attended (wonder why?) but to be fair they were good; the one on Ancient Rome by Paul Roberts (who really can put a cracking story together) was a total mystery to me, but the way be wound his story had me transfixed. I had not a clue who most of the ancient people he was talking about were, (apart from the well-known ones like Hadrian and Caesar) but he had the knack of bring the story to life to the extent you thought you did and it’s always good to watch someone who knows their subject so well and talks enthusiastically about it. The next talk by Commander Jeff Tall was about the U-boat war and as he had commanded four submarines and is now director of the submarine museum he also knows his subject. The sad thing about his talk was he slightly overran and they put the house lights up, even though there was nothing following his talk, quite a few people were disgruntled about him being hustled out leaving an empty theatre. Why? Anyway formal night tonight so need to go and have a whisky starter.

Day at sea

Thursday 1st May

Another bright sunny (but cold and blustery) day as we sailed west across the Mediterranean heading for the narrow Straits of Messina between Sicily and the toe of Italy. We watched another great talk from Paul Roberts about Pompeii and Herculaneum, it really is fascinating watching him pull all the relevant facts out of the mass of information available saying things “like remember this for later” and “you will see the importance of this later” and then start to put together a coherent tableau of life as it was then, saying remember X and this is why Z was so important and slowly the picture emerges like mist clearing from a valley.

Oh and ‘so sad’ Carol took the first suitcase out to start packing all the things that we won’t need before the end of the voyage. I put the SIM card back in the mobile in readiness for contact with the real world and didn’t get a signal for an hour or so. Anyway we took the Messina pilot on board at about 8:00pm before sailing through this tiny gap and after disembarking him we headed North on our way to Naples through the Tyrrhenian Sea. Went to dinner and then the show as the clocks go back again tonight so we get another hour in bed.

See Naples and die

Friday 2nd May

We snuck into Naples just as dawn was breaking, doing our normal pirouette in order to berth facing the way out. We settled in snugly alongside Norwegian Jade, which was moored on the opposite side of the pier. Breakfast was later today as we gave all the trips time to clear first and when we finally left the ship the sky was beginning to darken and the Cunard curse was just beginning to fall. Fortunately it wasn’t heavy and the streets of Naples are so narrow, not much actually gets to street level.

We followed the ‘Grand Walking Tour’ which was quite good and a big surprise that we could follow the Italian names/instructions. We went into more churches than I’ve been into for a long time, but the sad thing was they were all heavily vandalised on the exterior with graffiti and I don’t think it’s possible to get spray paint out of white marble. However following the instructions we managed to see most of Old Naples and returned foot weary in the afternoon.

We had an early departure and all tagged out in our winter woollies watched as we slipped our moorings together with Norwegian Jade and we both sailed out and across the bay side by side until eventually she went North and we went West. The phrase See Naples and Die must have been coined in its heyday because its once magnificent buildings have fallen into such a state of disrepair that the residents must be dying of shame. Graffiti covers all reachable surfaces and trees grow out of every available high crack. However it looks like they are fighting a determined rear-guard action as we saw several attempts to clean buildings and monuments, but how long would they would stay clean after completion and the berries taken down is anyone guess.

Naples – Photos

Getting rougher and cooler

Saturday 3rd May

Leaving the bay of Naples behind us, we crossed the Tyrrhenian Sea and headed out into the Mediterranean’s rougher weather, the first choppy water we’ve seen for some time. Talk today was by Commander Jeff Tall on the history of the RN submarine service up to 1945. Part two, 1945 will be after our visit to Palma. Not much happened during the day due to the weather, though this did moderate later in the day but not soon enough to avoid a poor turn out for dinner. We also went to watch the comedian (Adrian Walsh) who was a bit disappointing as even Carol knew the ending to some of the jokes, but he did work hard to get a laugh, I’ll give him that. Early rise tomorrow so that’s it for now.

Palma

Sunday 4th May

Alarm went off at 7:00am as we were entering the port of Palma De Mallorca where we shared our berth with the many ferries which scuttle backwards and forwards between Mallorca and the mainland (and other islands). From our cabin we could see the many posh yachts which share the marina adjacent to us. After a quick breakfast we caught the shuttle bus into town which dropped us behind the Cathedral and so we decided to walk along the waterfront for a while and then make our way inland, wise choice; everyone else headed straight into town and we met them all later heading in the opposite direction.

Weather was great, not too hot and very sunny so spent most of the day exploring Palma and sitting in sunny squares drinking coffee and watching the street performers. Instead of catching the shuttle we decided to walk the three miles back along the front admiring all the expensive yachts (and the expensive girls draped all over them – me that is, not Carol). That was Palma, a nice place for a long weekend.

We sailed at 3:30pm so it was a short visit all things considered. This evening was the final ‘round the worlders’ cocktail party and they made sure it was the best one. They are always good with things like mini fillet steaks & sliced lobster (or scallops) surf and turf plus dozens of other posh nibbles. This evening caviar was on offer and whilst I don’t mind it, it is not something I can rave about, I had some more just to make sure though. Champagne is another thing that was served in ample quantities, again not something I rave about, but after a few glasses it gets quite acceptable. The captain gave his speech which contained all the facts about the voyage (I’ll let you know in the final blog) and we then made our way to the penultimate formal dinner, which turned out to be quite a jolly one. Oh! By the way we are having problems with the internet on board again so not sure if these emails get to you on time and my phone is still playing up, so I don’t know if text messages are getting out.

Gathering of the queens

Monday 5th May

Another day at sea as we head towards the exit of the Mediterranean, the sun is shining and up on deck are the final few desperately trying to top up their tan before we arrive back in the UK. The captain announces that Queen Mary 2 is on our heels catching us up with every mile we cover he told us that we will enter Lisbon with Queen Victoria leading, Queen Elizabeth following and Queen Mary bringing up the rear. All three will be moored at the same quay. So while all this is happening, I went to listen to Commander Jeff Tall on the cold war and the part submarines had to play in the downfall of Communist Russia. When I came back up on deck we were closing in on Gibraltar and as we sailed past I couldn’t help wishing we were calling in as we always used to do. Then we were back out in the Atlantic and heading North once more with Queen Mary 2 (by now), just a few miles behind us. Then as we headed down to dinner we saw she had caught up with us and was now stationed about a mile away on our Port quarter (on our right hand side, slightly behind us). During dinner we watched her slowly creep past us until she reached right alongside where she stayed for the next hour or so. The show last night was what we used to call in the Navy ‘a sods opera’ where members of the ships company put together a show for general entertainment, and it was excellent as these things often are, as much for the mistakes as anything else, the theatre was packed. Clocks go back for the final hour tonight which means we have finally reached UK time, by putting our clocks back 25 times.
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3 Queens having a ball

Tuesday 6th May

Today has been quite eventful, we were up at six to discover that we were already in convoy with Queen Victoria and Queen Mary albeit about 5 miles apart. Dawn was just breaking and we were still not into the River Trejo. A quick shower later and we were on the upper deck watching as the gap between the three ships narrowed and the sun finally showed itself over the horizon, a bright red molten ball shimmering in the still air and colouring the sky around it. After taking the obligatory photos, we went to breakfast and watched the shoreline slip by in the morning light which grew stronger and whiter by the minute.

Breakfast over and we were back on deck watching as Queen Victoria approached and then passed under the 25th of April suspension bridge (which by the way, is modelled on the San Francisco Golden Gate bridge), followed by us and finally Queen Mary 2. We sailed a mile or so further on up the river and then one by one we performed our turns, curtsied and sidled up to the quayside like shy debutantes at their ball lining up for inspection by their suitors. It was a quite spectacular, if sedate performance of three huge ships less than 100 metres apart turning with perfect timing; one, two, three. The sun still low in the sky set everything off, lighting the white superstructure of all three ships as if under a spotlight and the backdrop of houses on the hillside behind were also picked out, their bright colours intensified in the morning light. On the bridge, now some distance behind us, the windows of a crossing train reflected the sun so brightly, it looked as if someone was pulling a sparkling diamond necklace across it. There was no chance for a retake and it didn’t need one, Cunard stage-managed the whole show to perfection. The professionalism of the three commanding officers choreographing this display was superb.

The excitement of arrival was compounded by all three ships disgorging their passengers simultaneously and many piling into buses to take off on their trips, the remainder pouring down the road like a line of marauding soldier ants, pity the poor inhabitants, or perhaps not, we were welcomed with open arms, all their Christmases had come at once. More than ten thousand new customers in one day (there were three other liners in port as well as the queens (Rotterdam, Ruby Princess & Silver Sea), Bonanza! But they were welcoming, didn’t pester and products they were selling were of decent quality. We walked into town because the lady marshalling the shuttle buses told us with refreshing honesty that the traffic was so bad it would be quicker to walk and as it was only a fifteen minute walk we (along with 80% of the queue) decided to walk. We spent five and a half hours walking round the Lisbon highlights eventually finding our way right at the top of the town looking down on the river in the far distance. The weather had been getting steadily hotter until it peaked at 28°C so we were glad that the walk back was downhill and under those huge trees that form a tunnel canopy over the central gardens. When we got back to the old town we stopped at one of the hundreds of street cafés and had a bite to eat and a beer while watching the thousands of tourist pass by, both on foot and in the many buses hired for the fleet. The weather and the occasion combined to make it one of the most enjoyable ports of call. We were back on board just past half three, ready for our grand departure at five.

If we thought we had seen everything during our morning arrival we were in for a surprise, because after a short delay waiting for Queen Mary 2s late day trippers, the signal was given and all three ships let go ‘almost’ simultaneously. We watched Queen Mary 2 let go and as soon as a gap appeared between her and the quay, we let go, and the same thing with Queen Victoria. The three of us pushed sideways off the quay and as each ship started to move it gave three blasts on the ships horn followed by a single blast. We manoeuvred sideways out into the main channel and then slowly moved ahead. All three ships packed to the gunnels with flag waving passengers cheering their heads off, then out of all three ships loudspeakers blasted Sister Sledge ‘We are family, I got all my sisters with me’. Then we lined up in staggered formation, (so we looked nose to tail from shore side) and slowly made our way downstream. Other music included pieces like ‘Hearts of Oak’, ‘Rule Britannia’, ‘Land of Hope and Glory’ stirring stuff, it certainly caused a stir ashore and we had the obligatory helicopter hovering over us and making many low level approaches. The other three liners in port had to wait for our departure before leaving, their passengers probably didn’t mind as they would have had the best view, though we had the best experience. It didn’t end there, after we had cleared the river, we manoeuvred into line abreast with Queen Mary 2 centre stage and less than 200 metres between us, we sailed into the sunset with the helicopter taking promo shots and videos until it was time to go to dinner, where we could still see the action through the dining room windows. Give Cunard their due, they know how to put on a display. By the way I noticed that Captain Wells (who captained us to San Francisco) is now in charge of Queen Mary 2, his blue ensign proudly fluttering between the two red ensigns either side.


We lost one during the night

Wednesday 7th May

Well when we went to bed there were three of us, when we got up there were just two of us. Poor old Victoria was missing! Gone! Not a trace! We scanned the horizon but to no avail, a little shiver went down our spines, who will be next? Us or Queen Mary 2? Conspiracy theories began to circulate, had Cunard competitors started to pick us off one by one, after yesterday’s triumphant coup. Alas all this was nipped in the bud when the captain announced during his midday broadcast that during the night one of Victoria’s passengers had been taken ill and they had to make full speed towards Vigo in Spain in order to get them to hospital asap. So we ploughed on towards Cape Finisterre (literally Cape end of the earth) from whence we commenced our crossing of the Bay of Biscay which is (as always) like a mill pond, it’s reputation has been greatly exaggerated since the days of sail when it’s shape rather than it’s waves was the kiss of death. We expect Victoria to catch us up later as we are only doing 17.4 knots.

It’s the last formal night of the voyage tonight another nail in the coffin of the 2014 world cruise we are almost down to hours to do rather than days to do. Oh! And by the way, thanks to Viv who spotted this story in the Daily Mail, talk about on the ball.

By eleven pm queen Victoria had caught us up and once more we were family. Tomorrow is our final full day.

Palma – Photos